

Sunrise hike crew. From left: Bhumi, Kathy, Gosia, Amy, Kelly, and Abby
Ken and Megan hang out on the porch at our house in the Rondo campsite.
One thing I have learned about Kenyan people is that they have a different perception of time compared to us over-stressed Americans. For example, if you set up a meeting with a Kenyan friend and 10, then rest assured they will be there around 10:30, but certainly by 11. I once attended a class for fourth-year Kenyan medical students, and the professor showed up 40 minutes late! I couldn’t believe that the students simply stayed around and waited – life definitely runs by a different watch here.
So, when we arranged a weekend at the Kakamega rainforest, I was really happy and looking forward to the trip. A group of American women from
My friend Ken, a local Kenyan associated with the IU program, had other ideas.
“Two and a half hours away!” he exclaimed. “Kakamega? No way – it only takes an hour and fifteen to get there.”
We left at 7:50am on Saturday, and I was pretty dubious. Ken and I joked around about making a bet, but nothing official was done.
At 10:13am, after a gut-jolting ride across pothole-strewn roads, we arrived at our campsite in Kakamega. I gave Ken a glance. “Just as I said!” he proclaimed with a smile, “An hour fifteen to Kakamega.” And I couldn’t help but smile.
The campsite, Rondo, was a beautiful resort-style site, with gorgeous landscaping and delicious food. We stayed in houses with large bedrooms (2 occupants to a room) and a private bathroom for each bedroom – very luxurious accommodations. We had an early lunch, then set off on our first rainforest hike.
We had three guides on the hike – Ben, Abraham, and Wyclef. We started our adventure with a quick tour and history of the Rondo grounds, then entered the forest. Apparently the rainforest at Kakamega was originally over 240,000 hectares, but today spans just 24,000 hectares due to human development and deforestation. The lions, elephants, giraffes, and other large game have permanently left the forest. Today, it is known for butterflies, monkeys, and scientific research. We hiked through both secondary (younger) rainforest, and primary (older, thicker) rainforest. We saw some beautiful birds, flashy butterflies, and noisy monkeys. Mostly, I enjoyed the freshness and serenity of the forest. The hike was pleasant, and not too strenuous; the most stressful part was crossing the rickety clapboard bridges that spanned the small rivers along our path. We continued for about 2 hours, and reached a raging river.
After resting at the riverbed, we continued on the trail and a soft rain began to fall. Mostly we were sheltered by the forest canopy, but eventually we entered a clearing, then hiked through the forest another short ways until the trail ended and we were walking along the road. The rain fell pretty steadily, and I couldn’t help but feel foolish for not taking an umbrella to the rainforest. We finally got back to camp, showered up, and the staff started the fire in our living room fireplace. It was wonderful to spend an afternoon relaxing and enjoying the fire, then at 4pm the staff brought us tea and chocolate cake! At that point, I knew I never wanted to leave – a gorgeous, aromatic fire, delicious cake, hot tea, and good friends. Rondo really knew how to host its guests! We hung out until dinner, which was chicken, potatoes, and carrots. It sounds plain, but it was the first well-prepared American style dinner I’ve had since being in
After dinner, we all played some Catch Phrase. In the game, players must describe a phrase without using any of the words in the phrase, and get their teammates to guess. It is hysterical, because English is a second-language to our Kenyan friends. They are a trip! During the game, our friend Ken would get so excited he couldn’t even talk, he would just wave his hands and say, “Come on, guys!! Come on!!” The Americans also try to use some Swahili to get their team to win. Jeremy was trying to get his team to guess “grated cheese”. The word for “great” in Swahili is “
“No, no, no… not MAFI,
Needless to say, I about split my gut on several occasions throughout the night. We finally hit the hay because we had a very early start… O’dark thirty (Maria, that one’s for you) we were up and starting our sunrise hike. In the pitch dark, we’re walking through the ditch-covered roads, then into the root-covered forest! Good thing I had my trusty mini Mag-lite! Finally we came to a hill that started as a gradual slope, then suddenly ramped up to a grass-covered cliff of about 90 degrees. My friends persevered, but I will admit I was sucking wind. I am out of shape! Sweating, coughing, and chest heaving, I pulled myself to the top. The view made it all worth it – the rainforest stretched out below us, with snakes of mist twisting through the shallow gullies. As we watched, the sun began to paint the sky and clouds in beautiful hues, then it crested over the horizon and spilled onto the forest and our vantage point. I may have been ornery when I woke up, but in those moments I enjoyed a personal peace that was shared between the onlookers.
After the surnrise, we hiked down the cliff a short ways to the
Only three weeks left! And actually, we will be traveling Wednesday through Friday of our last week, leaving only 2 and a half weeks! Time goes by so fast…
Bhumi, Laurine, Megan and I pose with our Masai host, Jeremiah. Jeremiah is the son of the chief of his village. He showed us around, answered our questions, and helped us shop for goods in the Masai market.Masai Mara was an amazing, whirlwind trip, and I can’t believe it is already here and gone. In hindsight, I almost wish we had stayed for another day because there is so much to see in the park.
We left early Friday morning, bumping and careening our way along in the matatu until we reached the smooth roads (about 3 hours into our journey). Along the way, I also had my first experience using an authentic Kenyan restroom, which translates to a hole in a poorly-ventilated stall. If you need details on this, you’ll have to wait until I come back home and we can talk face-to-face. Suffice it to say, it’s a good thing those Kenyan engineers design the operation to be graded toward the hole. In any case, we arrived to the Fig Tree Camp after 8 hours on the road. We grabbed lunch at the restaurant, and discovered that meals at Fig Tree are buffets, with a soup course first, and plenty of desserts! We certainly didn’t go hungry this weekend, especially considering the meals were included!
Next, we brought our bags to our rooms, and prepared for our first game drive. We started out at 4pm, and had two full hours in the park. The first ride was incredible, as everything around us was new. The Mara is different from
Cameras blazing, we showed the lion our appreciation of his majesty. The indifferent lion tolerated us until the lioness made her way down to the enclave to join him. We clicked and clicked, and then the lions did what lions do best. Roar? Et eh. Kill something and eat it? Nope. Gracefully race across the plains? No, no, no. They started getting it on! Embarrassed, I awkwardly put down my camera and tried to decide where to look. Fortunately, my trusty colleagues had better instincts than mine – what did they do? They took a video! We followed the lion pair as they crossed the small stream and then laid down in the grass for a nap. Our driver informed us that adult male lions mate approximately 300 times a week. That’s about twice an hour, non-stop, round the clock. I guess it’s a good thing it only took about 45 seconds. Apparently, the lions rest for at least 15 to 20 minutes after each escapade, so we sat around in the matatu, hushed whispers flying, and waited for the lions to move again. It took about 40 mnutes, but they did finally stir, decided to give the crowd of matatus something to talk about, and then laid down again! After this we took off, because it was obvious that this particular pair were a little more into themselves than doing something exciting like roaring or hunting.
We moved on, viewing more of the “common” Mara wildlife, such as zebras, antelope, and wildebeest. Next, we encountered a pair of young male lions napping with a lioness. No steamy stories here, just plain observation. We took off, and next found a group of elephants grazing in the plains. The sun was at the point where it is just beginning to approach the horizon, casting lovely rose and peach rays across the plains. The elephants looked magnificent, and we took tons of pictures. Happy as clams, we finally had to depart because the park hours were past closing. We saw a gorgeous sunset, and even happened across a trio of startled lions on our way back to the camp. All in all, the first game drive was spectacular. We headed back for dinner, then showered up and crashed because we had an early start the next morning.
Saturday, we woke up early, to start our morning game drive at 6:15am. It was rough getting up so early on a trip, but well worth it – we were out before all of the other matatus, and our dedication paid off; we actually watched the sun rise over the plains, as an adult male lion was passing through. Our driver positioned us perfectly, and we caught some amazing pics. The whole scene was surreal, and exquisitely beautiful. We feasted our eyes on the lions for a while, then took off once the matatu congestion began. We saw a pair of giraffes further out on the plains and caught up with them, a mother-offspring pair. Next, we followed a trio of hyenas for a short ways. It was interesting that two of the three spotted hyenas were wearing collars. Our guide, Eric, told us that they are tracked by researchers. Next, we saw a group of lionesses, including one mother playing with her two young cubs, which was delightful. Other highlights included two more families of elephants, some elands, a vulture, and an owl. Then, it was time to head back to camp to get ready for the Masai village!
This was a remarkable and unique experience, and I am very glad we went. To keep things brief, we got to tour a Masai village. The Masai are one of the oldest tribes, and most Masai people still keep the Masai cultural traditions, which include specific ceremonies, certain dress and decoration, and a nomadic lifestyle. We got to see and participate in the women’s dance, tour and learn about a Masai home, and see the men dance. I really enjoyed it, and our host, Jeremiah, was wonderful about answering our questions and explaining the traditions of his people.
We came back to the camp and had some time to enjoy the pool, grab lunch, and take a nap at the pool in the sun. Then, we had our second evening game drive, where we saw hippos for the first time! To be honest, they were a little poky. All you could really see was the top of their heads and their nostrils as they rose to the surface for a breath. I was hoping that they would go up onto the banks of the river, but no such luck. We did, however, get to see a couple of spats where one hippo rubbed another the wrong way and they tussled in the water. They also barked a little bit, which was cool. Then, back to laying around in the cool mud. On this drive, we also saw a male ostrich, more lions and elephants, as well as a wonderful sunset. Then, we headed back to camp for dinner, and rest.
Sunday, we again got up early for a game drive, hoping to see leopards and cheetah. We drove all around for quite a while without any success. The highlights from this drive were a group of giraffes, elands, and a warthog family. Then, we headed back to the camp for breakfast, and then to start the long journey home.
In

Here we are at Tony's house! The feast put on by Tony and his wife Lucy was amazing - and all from fresh, delicious ingredients! Tony taught us how to make home-made chapati, which are cirles of flat, soft, fried bread. Chapati goes very well with other Kenyan dishes such as sikumu wiki (dark sauteed greens), beef stew, matoke (mashed potatoes with mashed bananas), and mung beans (lentils). Back: Amy, Kelvin, and Jeremy. Middle: Megan, Bhumi, and Gosia. Front: Mwangi, Tony, and Lucy. For our second safari, we thought big… and took off across the border to
We started out on Friday afternoon and arrived at around 7pm. The company is called Nile River Explorers, and they have a campsite with bandas (simple huts) and dormitory-style rooms with several bunk beds per room. We were a group of 17, and took up several rooms and a banda! We went to a restaurant called The Black Lantern for dinner, right onsite. Gosia and I split our meals – so we each tried chicken curry and tilapia (from the
The next morning, we were up early and ready to raft! We had a light breakfast at the Explorer main office, watched some very inspiring clips of yesterday’s rafters, and got ready to take on the
My group decided we were going to go all-out and take on the toughest rapids, instead of taking the calmer, “chicken” way. I had Rhonda, Natalie, Stacy, Kelly, Gosia, and Peter in my raft, and we were total whitewater rockstars. Some people had been rafting in the states, including Rhonda, Kelly, and Stacy, for others it was the first time (like me!). Stacy told me in the middle of the trip that rafting in the
My favorite rapid was called “Silverback”. A Silverback is another name for the dominant male gorilla of a clan. Our guide, Henry, told us the rapid got this name because when you reach the last wave, it feels like a gorilla crushing you. Our raft lurched and spun through the waves, until finally I felt the scary acceleration as we tipped over the edge. When I looked up, my entire field of vision was enveloped by a wall of water. It was angry and alive, rushing upward in a menacing V-shape, ready to devour us. I held the safety rope with all my might, and the next thing I knew we were on the other side, emerging from the rapid! It was incredible – we couldn’t believe we didn’t tip! We all screamed, laughed, and congratulated ourselves and Henry. It was an amazing high.
One thing I should mention is that the guides on our trip were spectacular. They made a video of our group, and I bought it – I will see if I can post some clips from it, but the connection here is very slow and I’m not too sure it will work. In any case, the guides are amazing – they joke around that it’s their first day on the job (but they’ve watched the training video many times!), but the truth is, they knew the river like the back of their paddles. Not to mention, they were spectacular entertainers. Sometimes, even if their whole raft made it through a difficult rapid, they would jump off the boat in celebration, just for fun! They had great skills with maneuvering the rafts safely, as well. For example, when you start out in the morning you go through training. You learn how to paddle, how to take directions, how to float through the rapids on your own if you get knocked out, how to get out from under the raft if it falls on you, you know, all the essentials. Well, one of the commands is, “Get down!!” after which you throw yourself into the belly of the raft, grab onto the safety rope with all you’ve got, and pray like hell you stay in the raft. Mind you, during all this the guide does not “get down” – he steers the raft!!
The last rapid was also a trip – it starts out as a level 6, which is the most dangerous level of rapid. Don’t worry, we disembarked from our rafts and walked around the level 6 stuff, until it was only considered level 4. We did, however, see some of the rescue-kayakers brave the waters, and it was intense! I was afraid they would drown, truly. One kayaker got torn clear out of his kayak, and dislocated his shoulder! However, at the section where we re-joined the water there were a few options – the chicken way, the medium way, and the hard way. My raft was going to take on the hard way, and I was all for it. We started out, entered the rapid, and held on for the ride of a lifetime. Henry yelled, “Get down!!” and I flung myself into the raft and grabbed the rope. We careened around sheets of frothing water when a felt myself being thrown from the raft. I tried to hold on, but I was being twisted and had no chance, so I let go of the raft and took my chances on the river. I was instantly submerged into a ravenous, thrashing cage of water. I tried to hold onto my paddle, but couldn’t swim well enough with it, so I cut my losses and let it go. I was helpless as a child, and without my trusty lifejacket would have stood no chance against the power of the
That was awesome!!!!
So for our first weekend adventure, we decided to head out to Lake Nakuru... a moderate-sized Kenyan National Park. We were advised that the park was about 2.5 hours away. I have since learned that Keyan people have a different perspective on time. We left at about 3pm. After 2 hours in the car and no road signs indicating we were anywhere near Nakuru, we asked our driver, Paul, how much longer the trip would be. He told us we were about 2 hours away. True to form, at about 7pm we arrived at Midland Hotel.
We spent all morning Sunday on safari - the matatu has a roof that can be raised for wildlife viewing. We met up with a group of students from the University of Utah, and continued to tour through the park with them. Lake Nakuru is famous for its flamingos, and rightly so - there were millions of them throughout the lake and on the lakeshore. They made a mildly amusing, low honking sound as our matatu approached and we stepped out. We also saw monkeys, warthogs, impala, gazelles, baboons, water buffalo, and zebras. We got up close to some giraffes, and later some white rhinos. I have some great pictures of the wildlife, and if I can figure out how to post them, I will!
After the park, we went to a prehistoric site - Hyrax Hill. Human remains dating back 5000 years were found on the site. There was a small museum with some artifacts and replicas of the skulls. The real skulls are in Nairobi National Museum. We climbed the hill, and soaked in the great view of the Lake and Nakuru.
We ate lunch at a local restaurant, then packed up and headed home! Safari 1 was a great success - now I'm looking forward to white water rafting on the Nile in Uganda next weekend!